The province of León, located in north-western Spain, covers an area of 15,581 square kilometres and offers a diversity of landscapes that surprises those who travel through it. From the cereal plains of the south to the imposing mountain peaks of the north, passing through the river valleys and the vineyards of El Bierzo, León is a mosaic of contrasts. Its regions, such as Maragatería, Babia and El Bierzo, have their own identities marked by unique traditions and a rich history, often linked to their strategic location on the Camino de Santiago. The settlement of the province reflects this variety: small mountain villages coexist with historic cities such as the capital, while uninhabited hamlets dot a territory that combines the rural with vestiges of a splendid past.
The city of León: a monumental legacy
The city of León, the provincial capital, is a destination that oozes history from every corner. Founded as a Roman camp by the Legio VII Gemina in the first century, its past can be seen in the walls that are still standing and in the layout of its streets. However, it is its medieval legacy that makes it shine. The Cathedral of Santa María, known as the ‘Pulchra Leonina’, is a Gothic jewel with stained glass windows that flood its interior with light, considered to be some of the most beautiful in Europe. A few steps away, the Basilica of San Isidoro, pantheon of the kings of León, houses Romanesque frescoes that have earned it the nickname of ‘Sistine Chapel of the Romanesque’. The old town, with the barrio Húmedo as its epicentre, invites you to lose yourself in squares such as San Martín or Regla, where tapas and wine accompany the lively local life. Buildings such as the Casa Botines, designed by Gaudí, or the modernist MUSAC show that León also embraces modernity without renouncing its essence. With a population of around 120,000, the city combines the bustle of a capital with the calm of a city on a human scale, ideal for exploring on foot.
The Way of Saint James: from Sahagún to Villafranca del Bierzo
The Camino de Santiago crosses the province from east to west, leaving a trail of charming towns and heritage sites. Sahagún, in Tierra de Campos, marks the beginning of this section with its Mudejar legacy, visible in churches such as San Tirso and San Lorenzo. Moving on, the pilgrim arrives in Astorga, in the heart of León and the crossroads of the French Route and the Vía de la Plata. This city, formerly Asturica Augusta, boasts a cathedral, the Episcopal Palace designed by Gaudí and a Roman wall. Astorga is also the gateway to Maragatería, a mysterious region where muleteers left their mark on villages such as Castrillo de los Polvazares, with cobbled streets and stone houses that seem frozen in time. Further on, the Camino climbs towards the Cruz de Ferro, a symbol of rebirth in the heart of Monte Irago, and descends to Ponferrada, capital of Bierzo. There, the Templar Castle dominates a city surrounded by vineyards. The section culminates in Villafranca del Bierzo, with its church of Santiago and the ‘Puerta del Perdón’, a place of great spiritual significance. This route along the Camino not only offers history, but also the opportunity to sample cured beef, cocido maragato (a hearty stew) or botillo (a type of cured meat), dishes that reflect the gastronomic richness of the area.
The mountains of León: Picos de Europa, Babia and skiing
The mountainous areas of León are a paradise for nature lovers. In the north, the Picos de Europa mountains include peaks such as Torrecerredo, the highest in the province at 2,648 metres, and landmarks such as the Ruta del Cares, which winds its way through spectacular gorges. This area, part of the National Park, is home to wildlife such as the chamois and the brown bear, as well as villages such as Caín and Posada de Valdeón, perfect for exploring the mountains of León. Towards the interior, the Babia region seduces with its landscape of pastures and gentle peaks, a place of legends where ‘estar en Babia’ (to be in Babia) evokes the peace of its valleys. Here, transhumance is still alive, and the villages retain an ancestral air. For ski enthusiasts, León has two resorts: San Isidro, on the border with Asturias, and Leitariegos, further west. San Isidro, with more than 30 kilometres of skiable terrain, is ideal for families and intermediate skiers, while Leitariegos offers a peaceful atmosphere and views of the Bierzo region. These mountains are not only a winter refuge, but also a summer destination for hikers and those looking to disconnect in an incomparable natural environment.
León, as a whole, is a destination that brings together history, culture and nature in generous doses. The city invites you to travel back in time, the Camino de Santiago to explore its spiritual roots and the mountains to admire their scenic grandeur. A province that, with its diversity, leaves no one indifferent.